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Detail: Assyrian Annals clay prism |
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The Colors - Undyed and Dyed
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The ancient cuneiform
texts known as The Assyrian Annals record that over twenty seven
centuries ago, the great Assyrian Emperor, Tiglath-Pileser III,
sent his terrifying armies through the western Asian lands, conquering
the cities there, and seizing riches including: "gold, silver,
. . . ivory, . . . blue-dyed wool, purple
dyed wool, ebony, . . . whatever was precious royal
treasure."
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In his work Bulbach prizes the undyed colored
wools as much, if not more, than the dyed wools. Their shades
are rich and complex. In the above image, one
single Lincoln fleece was sorted by shade before spinning to provide
this range of undyed colored weft yarns.
The colored wools are very rare due to the
modern agricultural industry, which exterminates sheep that are
not 100% white. In this manner, the industry attempts to
ensure a pure white product which can be dyed to the exact specifications
demanded by the marketplace.
Fortunately, sheep growers concerned about
the preservation of rare breeds have been working closely with
the renaissance of hand spinning to save colored stock and provide
their wools to spinners for use in their special projects.
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The darkest black lustrous Lincoln long wools
are quite rare and valuable.
These darkest black and lightest silver wools
in the image above come from two different Lincoln sheep. |
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Indigo comes from a leguminous (bean) plant
and requires a complex application process. It was historically
prized as greatly as gold and silver. The word indigo comes
from the Classical Greek, "indikos," meaning "of the Indus [River
valley]," revealing the dye's ancient
source.
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Cochineal is the Native American name for the
cactus-dwelling insects that produce carminic acid which
produces colors from scarlet to purple. The Spanish and English
explorers fought to dominate the trade in this dye source.
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Yellow and gold hues can come from a number
of sources, including American black oak and common goldenrod.
When used with indigo dyeing, greens are produced.
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